In Alice in wonderland, how does Alice change and what does she learn from the creatures there?

She learned not to smoke mad bowls of kush anymore.

She learned not to 420 blaze it so often.

I think what she learned is that just because she goes through changes, it does not mean her identity has been altered. She is still the same person she was in the morning in spite of her experiences. She also learned how words can be misinterpreted or twisted around, so she was mais careful with what she says.
Alice was incredibly meek in the beginning, but as mais characters like the Queens, the Duchess, and Hatter kept giving her orders and criticizing her, it taught her to stand up for herself and not listen to every command an adult tells her.
The books are about growing up, and remaining yourself in spite of external changes, or at least that is how I interpreted it. I hope this helps.