If you're going to dive into my diary make sure you know how to swim.
I finally got the big wave board that a friend of mine down under custom made for me. I can’t wait to try it out at Cyclops, Dungeon de praia, praia or maybe Ghost Trees. Of course now that school’s in I can’t just take off whenever I want. Hopefully there’ll be some monsters swells over one of our holidays – fins crossed till then.
Conditions for the surf meet were perfect today and I was able to score my first 10 of the season off this killer wave that I totally could feel breathing down the back of my neck....